This Rolex Submariner reference 1680 "Red" Submariner, with original punched Rolex Warranty paper work booklet. This watch could be considered the most iconic, and certainly the most recognizable watch in the Rolex stable. Since its inception into the Rolex line up in 1953 this watch has been worn and loved by deep sea divers, military personnel, movie stars and today's watch collectors. This version marked the second major change to the introduction of the Rolex Submariner with date function. The first model launched in 1967 and is most easily distinguished by the type "Submariner" on the dial printed in red.
The Rolex Submariner reference 1680 occupies a unique position in the history of both Rolex and the modern tool watch. Introduced around 1967, it was the first Submariner to feature a date complication, a development that divided opinion at the time but ultimately helped transform the Submariner from a specialist diving instrument into one of the most versatile luxury watches ever produced.
Prior to the arrival of the 1680, the Submariner had been a pure tool watch. References such as the 6204, 6538, 5512 and 5513 were designed with a singular purpose in mind. Their clean, symmetrical dials and absence of a date display reflected the practical needs of professional divers. The introduction of the 1680 marked a significant departure from that philosophy. Rolex added a date aperture at three o’clock beneath a magnifying Cyclops lens, a feature already familiar to owners of the Datejust and Day-Date. While some purists resisted the change, many buyers appreciated the additional practicality, particularly those who intended to wear their Submariner every day rather than solely underwater.
What makes the earliest examples of the 1680 particularly important is the colour of a single word on the dial. For the first years of production, the word “Submariner” was printed in red rather than white. This seemingly minor design detail would later create one of the most desirable and collectible variants in the entire Rolex catalogue. Today these watches are known simply as “Red Submariners.”
The exact reasons Rolex chose to print the model designation in red remain unclear. Rolex rarely documented such decisions, and much of the company’s production history from this period remains deliberately opaque. What is known is that the red text appeared across a series of dial variations produced between approximately 1967 and 1975. Collectors generally recognise several distinct “Mark” dials, each displaying subtle differences in typography, spacing and printing. These variations have become a specialist area of study, with experienced collectors often able to identify a dial’s production period at a glance.
The Red Submariner was produced during a fascinating transitional period for Rolex. Professional diving was expanding rapidly, recreational scuba diving was becoming increasingly popular, and the Submariner had established itself as the benchmark against which all other dive watches were measured. The reference 1680 accompanied this growth while maintaining the rugged engineering that had made earlier Submariners famous. The watch featured a 40mm stainless steel Oyster case, a bidirectional rotating bezel, screw-down crown and a depth rating of 200 metres. Inside was Rolex’s calibre 1575, one of the most respected movements the company ever produced. Robust, accurate and remarkably durable, it helped cement Rolex’s reputation for reliability during an era when professional users demanded absolute dependability from their equipment.
By the mid-1970s Rolex quietly abandoned the red printing and returned to white text. Production of the Red Submariner ended, though few could have predicted the significance that decision would later hold. As vintage Rolex collecting matured in the 1980s and 1990s, enthusiasts began paying closer attention to subtle dial variations and production details. The Red Submariner emerged as one of the most desirable references from the period, combining the classic proportions of vintage Submariners with the practicality of a date display and a distinctive visual signature unavailable on any later production model.
Today the Red Submariner remains one of the cornerstones of serious vintage Rolex collecting. It represents a moment when Rolex was evolving from a manufacturer of professional instruments into the global luxury powerhouse it would become. The reference captures both worlds perfectly. It is still every inch a purpose-built diving watch, yet it also hints at the broader appeal that would ultimately make the Submariner one of the most recognised wristwatches ever created.
Few watches demonstrate how a seemingly insignificant detail can shape collecting history quite like the Red Submariner 1680. A single line of red text transformed what was once simply the first date-equipped Submariner into one of the most celebrated vintage Rolex references of all time.
This example presented here is the mark 3 dial. These appeared at the same time period as the Mark 2 dials, but have marked differences; the F in 'Ft' is shorter. The open "6''s are thicker and the most stark difference is the red printing of 'Submariner' on the dial is directly onto the black background. The mark 2 dials see the red printing dropped on top of a white background, often shadowing the red on top.
The dial and perfectly matched hands are in excellent condition, with the minute hand having a light crack to the lume. The colour has a pleasing, very light, ivory patina to the lume. The case condition is also good with signs of wear, but most likely unpolished with the case lines remaining sharp and thick. The correct fat font bezel insert is in tact and starting to show a beautiful dark charcoal fade, with no heavy scratches of pit marks. The pip is missing. One can be sourced if so desired.
The watch is fitted with its original folded link Rolex Submariner Patented diver extension bracelet with flip lock date stamped "3 70". It would appear that the bracelet itslef is a slightly later thicker link bracelet. It is not uncommon to see these upgraded as the original, folded link bracelets, became stretched and damaged. The case is fully stamped inside and out with the model number 1680 on the case back along with III69 for production date, and between the lugs. The serial number of the watch is a 2.2 million dating it to 1970. The very rare original punched paper booklet matches the case serial number The watch is powered by the Rolex automatic 1570 movement in excellent condition and keeping perfect time.
This is a rare chance to own a complete and very clean iconic and collectible time piece.
