A solid eighteen carat three color gold Cartier Turbogas earrings. An absolutely stunning and high quality piece of women's jewelry. A particularly strong pair of Cartier hoop earrings from circa 1970, made in eighteen carat yellow, white and rose gold using the house’s distinctive Tubogas construction. The earrings are formed from tightly articulated bands of the three colours of gold, creating a richly textured surface that changes subtly as the light moves across it. Substantial without being oversized, the pair measures 3/4 of an inch drop by 3/8 inch wide.

Tubogas, meaning “gas pipe” in Italian, takes its name from the flexible corrugated metal tubing developed for industrial use in the nineteenth century. Translated into jewellery, the technique involves forming tightly wound strips of metal into a continuous articulated structure. The construction creates the appearance of a solid sculptural form while retaining a degree of flexibility, and requires considerable precision to achieve its characteristic uninterrupted ribbed surface.

Cartier’s use of yellow, white and rose gold also places these earrings within a much longer vocabulary of colour established by the Maison. In 1924 Louis Cartier introduced the Trinity ring, bringing three differently coloured bands of gold together in what became one of Cartier’s most enduring designs. By the middle decades of the twentieth century, the combination had become immediately recognisable within Cartier jewellery, allowing the house to create pieces whose interest came from form, movement and contrasting gold rather than gemstones.

During the 1960s and 1970s, jewellery became increasingly sculptural and gold itself became the principal decorative material. Tubogas was particularly suited to this period. Its industrial origins translated remarkably well into the bold, highly finished jewellery of the era, giving pieces both visual weight and a sense of movement. Cartier employed the technique across bracelets, necklaces and earrings, including examples executed in the house’s characteristic three-colour palette, such as this pair. The design was made in all yellow gold. This three-colour gold variation being more rare and desirable.

These earrings are an especially successful expression of that idea. The closely spaced bands of yellow, white and rose gold read almost as a single piece from a distance, while at closer inspection the construction and individual colours become apparent. Their compact proportions and considerable weight give them the presence associated with 1970s Cartier without becoming overly formal.

The earrings are fully signed on the exterior curve on each one. There is a "750" losenge mark on the inside of each earring for having been made in eighteen carat gold. There is also the unique Cartier product number stamped on each earring.

A beautifully engineered piece of Cartier jewellery in which the technique is as important as the material itself. Made in Italy, circa 1970's