An automatic, stainless steel, Rolex Submariner with date.This watch could be considered the most iconic, and certainly the most recognizable watch in the Rolex stable. Since its inception into the Rolex line up in 1953 this watch has been worn and loved by deep sea divers, members of the military, movie stars and today's watch collectors. This version marked a fairly large design change with the introduction of the applied circular edge around to the hour indices that were introduced on this, the 16800 reference.

The 16800 is an important reference for Rolex, and the Submariner. When replacing the 1680 in 1979 it underwent some quite important updates into modernising the watch; out went the acrylic crystal, and in came the sapphire. Out went the bi-directional, friction fitted bezel. In came the uni-directional bezel with more accurate setting. Perhaps most importantly for those using the watch for its intended purpose, the depth usage improved greatly from 660 feet (200 meters) to 1,000 feet (300 meters). This is the exact same depth rating of a modern Rolex Submariner. The movement was also upgraded with the biggest improvement being the introduction of a quick set date.

The classic matte dials with lume plots applied directly to it has gone now, phased out around 1984. We now see the introduction of the white gold surrounds to hold the lume plots. Cosmetically this was a very big shift from the 1680, and the early transitional 16800's. However, this is still a Tritium lume dial and hand set, both original to the watch, and is what is now driving collectability in the Rolex, and particularly the sport watch market.

This dial is marked "Swiss T>25", meaning that this dial has applied Tritium luminous material. This material replaced the highly dangerous and radioactive Radium in 1963. Just like radium, tritium was also radioactive; however, it came with a much lower level of radiation and a much shorter half-life. While tritium was exponentially safer than radium, it only had a half-life of twelve years. This meant that after just a few decades, only a tiny fraction of the initial luminescence would remain. Additionally, as tritium ages, the color changes, which creates often beautiful, and highly sought after patinas on the luminous markers on these older Rolex watches. Tritium was far from perfect, which led Rolex to search for a better alternative.

The answer came during the 1990’s, from a Japanese company called Nemoto and Co., which specialized in producing luminous paint. Their new compound, called Luminova, was photoluminescent rather than radioactive, making it entirely harmless. Additionally, it was not prone to fading or discoloration like its predecessor, tritium. Luminova was far superior to tritium, and by 1998, Rolex began using it on their watches. These are now rare and collectible, as the production run was around two years, and are marked simply "Swiss". By 2000, Rolex had switched to Super Luminova, a slightly improved version of Luminova that was sold through a different supplier. These dials were marked "Swiss Made."

The watch is powered by a Rolex, Swiss made, twenty seven jewel automatic calibre 3035 movement that powered the majority of all Rolex models since its launch, from the Datejust to the Submariner. Among a number of improvements was the extension of the power reserve form the caliber 1570 from forty two hours to fifty, made possible thanks to a fast-rotating barrel. It is regarded as one of the best calibers produced by the company, and testament to that is the fact it remained in use for around twelve years.

The case is in excellent condition, very lightly polished, showing solid chamfers and thick lugs, rare with watches from this period. The bezel insert is correct and original to the watch. The pip set in the arrow at the sixty minute mark has already turned a warm coffee colour, and looks great sitting atop the watch. The bracelet is correct for the model; marked 93150 with 501B end links. It is in very good condition with only slight stretch, with diver extension, and three removable links. The bracelet is a slightly later example with a date code of "R2" from 1993.

This is one of the last examples of this reference. It was replaced circa 1987 by quite an oddball reference.The 16800 became the 168000. This update remained in the line for around two years, was never mentioned in Rolex literature and seems to have many collectors confused about its place in the evolution of the Rolex Submariner. Perhaps the biggest change here was the use of a new type of stainless steel. Out went the 316L, in came the 904L. The case remained the same, bezel insert the same, bracelet etc.

Overall, this is an excellent watch, in very good, strong condition. The beauty with these "Neo Vintage" models is that they will only get better over time. This example is already seeing the lume plots turn slightly into a very light coffee colour.

As the new models have grown in size, include the engraved rehaut and the new bezel inserts, these earlier models are just looking better with every passing year. The watch has undergone a full service from a Rolex service center, and will come with the invoice from service.